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<article article-type="research-article" dtd-version="1.3" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xml:lang="ru"><front><journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">observatoria</journal-id><journal-title-group><journal-title xml:lang="ru">Обсерватория культуры</journal-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>Observatory of Culture</trans-title></trans-title-group></journal-title-group><issn pub-type="ppub">2072-3156</issn><issn pub-type="epub">2588-0047</issn><publisher><publisher-name>Russian State Library</publisher-name></publisher></journal-meta><article-meta><article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.25281/2072-3156-2026-23-2-156-163</article-id><article-id custom-type="elpub" pub-id-type="custom">observatoria-2065</article-id><article-categories><subj-group subj-group-type="heading"><subject>Research Article</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="ru"><subject>НАСЛЕДИЕ</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="en"><subject>HERITAGE</subject></subj-group></article-categories><title-group><article-title>Выставка-исследование «Мода, которой нет» как способ работы с архивами моды Южного Урала</article-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>The Research Exhibition “Fashion That Doesn’t Exist” as a Way of Working with the Fashion Archives of the Southern Urals</trans-title></trans-title-group></title-group><contrib-group><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7767-081X</contrib-id><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Ермаковишна</surname><given-names>Елена Александровна</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Ermakovishna</surname><given-names>Elena A.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>факультет креативных индустрий, Школа дизайна НИУ ВШЭ, ивент-отдел,руководитель</p><p>Мясницкая ул., д. 20, Москва, 101000, Россия</p><p>ORCID 0000-0001-7767-081X; SPIN 4291-3996</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>20 Myasnitskaya Str., Moscow, 109028, Russia</p><p>ORCID 0000-0001-7767-081X; SPIN 4291-3996</p></bio><email xlink:type="simple">ermakovishna.elena@gmail.com</email><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib></contrib-group><aff-alternatives id="aff-1"><aff xml:lang="ru"><institution>Национальный исследовательский университет «Высшая школа экономики»</institution><country>Россия</country></aff><aff xml:lang="en"><institution>National Research University “Higher School of Economics”</institution><country>Russian Federation</country></aff></aff-alternatives><pub-date pub-type="collection"><year>2026</year></pub-date><pub-date pub-type="epub"><day>31</day><month>03</month><year>2026</year></pub-date><volume>23</volume><issue>2</issue><fpage>156</fpage><lpage>163</lpage><permissions><copyright-statement>Copyright &amp;#x00A9; Ермаковишна Е.А., 2026</copyright-statement><copyright-year>2026</copyright-year><copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Ермаковишна Е.А.</copyright-holder><copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Ermakovishna E.A.</copyright-holder><license xml:lang="ru"><license-p>© 2026 ФГБУ "Российская государственная библиотека". Все права защищены. Воспроизведение без письменного разрешения запрещено.</license-p></license><license xml:lang="en"><license-p>© 2026 Russian State Library. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited.</license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://observatoria.rsl.ru/jour/article/view/2065">https://observatoria.rsl.ru/jour/article/view/2065</self-uri><abstract><p>Выставка-исследование «Мода, которой нет» (Челябинск, 2024) посвящена изучению трансформаций модной индустрии Южного Урала за последние 30 лет. Проект, инициированный самоорганизованной командой LongFashionWeekend, ставит целью реконструкцию локальной модной истории через работу с архивами. В условиях отсутствия системной документации модной сцены региона выставка становится инструментом осмысления региональной идентичности, демонстрируя, как мода Южного Урала развивалась от советской легкой промышленности через кризис 1990-х гг. к становлению независимых брендов в 2010—2020-х годах.</p><p>В рамках исследования была проведена выставка, которая объединила четыре временны́х блока (1990-е, 2000-е, 2010-е и 2020-е гг.), раскрывающих ключевые явления в каждом периоде через призму дизайна, медиа, событий и инфраструктуры. Особое внимание в проекте было уделено образовательной программе и интерактивным практикам, вовлекающим зрителей в диалог с прошлым как инструментом сбора дополнительной информации.</p><p>Исследование выявило проблемы отсутствия архивов и необходимость создания постоянной экспозиции. Проект доказывает, что региональная мода — не маргинальный феномен, а значимая часть культурного наследия, требующая академического осмысления как формы коллективной памяти и инструмента переосмысления индустриального наследия Южного Урала. Это явление, которое следует рассматривать наравне с архитектурой, искусством, литературой как форму коллективного высказывания о времени, месте и исторических изменениях.</p></abstract><trans-abstract xml:lang="en"><p>The research exhibition Fashion That Doesn’t Exists (Chelyabinsk, 2024) explores the transformations of the Southern Ural fashion industry over the past 30 years. Initiated by the self-organized LongFashionWeekend team, the project aims to reconstruct local fashion history through archival research. Given the lack of systematic documentation of the region’s fashion scene, the exhibition becomes a tool for understanding regional identity, demonstrating how fashion in the Southern Ural region evolved from the Soviet light industry through the crisis of the 1990s to the emergence of independent brands in the 2010s and 2020s.</p><p>As part of the research, an exhibition was held that combined four time periods (1990s, 2000s, 2010s, and 2020s), revealing key phenomena in each period through the prism of design, media, events, and infrastructure. The project placed particular emphasis on an educational program and interactive practices that engage viewers in a dialogue with the past as a means of gathering additional information.</p><p>The research revealed the lack of archives and the need to create a permanent exhibition. The project demonstrates that regional fashion is not a marginal phenomenon, but a significant part of cultural heritage, requiring academic understanding as a form of collective memory and a tool for rethinking the industrial heritage of the Southern Urals.</p></trans-abstract><kwd-group xml:lang="ru"><kwd>мода Южного Урала</kwd><kwd>архивные исследования</kwd><kwd>локальная идентичность</kwd><kwd>выставка-исследование</kwd><kwd>LongFashionWeekend</kwd><kwd>дизайн</kwd></kwd-group><kwd-group xml:lang="en"><kwd>Southern Ural fashion</kwd><kwd>archival research</kwd><kwd>local identity</kwd><kwd>research exhibition</kwd><kwd>LongFashionWeekend</kwd><kwd>design</kwd></kwd-group></article-meta></front><back><ref-list><title>References</title><ref id="cit1"><label>1</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Мезина Г. Хрупкий цветок моды // Курс дела : сетевое издание. 20 марта 2014. 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