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<article article-type="research-article" dtd-version="1.3" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xml:lang="ru"><front><journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">observatoria</journal-id><journal-title-group><journal-title xml:lang="ru">Обсерватория культуры</journal-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>Observatory of Culture</trans-title></trans-title-group></journal-title-group><issn pub-type="ppub">2072-3156</issn><issn pub-type="epub">2588-0047</issn><publisher><publisher-name>Russian State Library</publisher-name></publisher></journal-meta><article-meta><article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.25281/2072-3156-2017-14-5-578-584</article-id><article-id custom-type="elpub" pub-id-type="custom">observatoria-544</article-id><article-categories><subj-group subj-group-type="heading"><subject>Research Article</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="ru"><subject>НАСЛЕДИЕ</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="en"><subject>HERITAGE</subject></subj-group></article-categories><title-group><article-title>Культурная история костюма:  кружево как Terra Incognita</article-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>Cultural History of Costume: Lace as Terra Incognita</trans-title></trans-title-group></title-group><contrib-group><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Шапиро</surname><given-names>Бэлла Львовна</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Shapiro</surname><given-names>Bella L.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>кандидат исторических наук, доцент, факультет истории искусства, кафедра музеологии.</p><p>Миусская пл., д. 6, Москва, 125993.</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>6, Miusskaya Sq., Moscow, 125993.</p></bio><email xlink:type="simple">b.shapiro@mail.ru</email><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib></contrib-group><aff-alternatives id="aff-1"><aff xml:lang="ru"><institution>Российский государственный гуманитарный университет.</institution><country>Россия</country></aff><aff xml:lang="en"><institution>Russian State University for the Humanities.</institution><country>Russian Federation</country></aff></aff-alternatives><pub-date pub-type="collection"><year>2017</year></pub-date><pub-date pub-type="epub"><day>14</day><month>11</month><year>2017</year></pub-date><volume>14</volume><issue>5</issue><fpage>578</fpage><lpage>584</lpage><permissions><copyright-statement>Copyright &amp;#x00A9; Шапиро Б.Л., 2017</copyright-statement><copyright-year>2017</copyright-year><copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Шапиро Б.Л.</copyright-holder><copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Shapiro B.L.</copyright-holder><license xml:lang="ru"><license-p>© 2026 ФГБУ "Российская государственная библиотека". Все права защищены. Воспроизведение без письменного разрешения запрещено.</license-p></license><license xml:lang="en"><license-p>© 2026 Russian State Library. All rights reserved. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited.</license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://observatoria.rsl.ru/jour/article/view/544">https://observatoria.rsl.ru/jour/article/view/544</self-uri><abstract><p>Рассматривается проблема подлинника как терра инкогнита культурной истории костюма. За отправную точку принят частный случай в изучении теории костюма, а именно культурная матрица западноевропейского кружева — малоизученный вопрос в контексте проблемы прототипа и его повторений. Культурный текст, предоставленный объектом исследования, анализируется с точки зрения аутентичности и преемственности наслоений. Акцент в работе делается на истории Belle Époque, когда в активное обращение вводятся не только тщательно воспроизведенные ренессансные формы, но и их многочисленные интерпретации. Отмечается, что подражательные работы этого времени могут быть представлены на условной шкале, связанной с уровнем их самостоятельности. Это точные копии, имитации различной степени вольности и подделки. Параллельно с историей кружева рассматриваются вопросы разного рода повторений в других предметных областях костюмологии. Выявлены условия, в которых неподлинные вещи приобретают определенную культурную ценность, определена их роль в формировании «подражательного» костюма. Итогом работы является вывод, согласно которому частные случаи, рассмотренные с культурологической точки зрения, могут послужить не только расширению событийного ряда истории костюма, но и выступить основой для конструирования культурного текста эпохи.</p></abstract><trans-abstract xml:lang="en"><p>This article considers the problem of original as “Terra Incognita” in the cultural history of costume. The starting point here is a special case in the studies of costume theory. It is the cultural matrix of the West European lace — an insufficiently explored question in the context of the problem of prototype and its repetitions. The cultural text, provided by research object, is analyzed from the standpoint of authenticity and continuity of deposits. The study is focused on appeal to the history of Belle Époque. at that time, carefully reproduced renaissance forms and their numerous interpretations were put into active circulation. It is noted that the imitative works of that time can be represented on a conventional scale related to their level of independence. They are replications, interpretations with varying degrees of liberty, and fakes. along with the history of lace, there are studied various kinds of repetitions in other subject areas of costumology. The article identifies the conditions in which inauthentic things can have a certain cultural value, defines their role in the formation of “imitative” costume. The study concludes that special cases, considered from the culturological point of view, can not only extend the event-series of the history of costume, but also serve as the basis for constructing cultural text of the era.</p></trans-abstract><kwd-group xml:lang="ru"><kwd>культурология</kwd><kwd>художественная культура</kwd><kwd>проблема подлинности</kwd><kwd>прототип</kwd><kwd>Belle Époque</kwd><kwd>культурная история костюма</kwd><kwd>история кружева</kwd></kwd-group><kwd-group xml:lang="en"><kwd>cultural studies</kwd><kwd>art culture</kwd><kwd>authenticity problem</kwd><kwd>prototype</kwd><kwd>Belle Époque</kwd><kwd>cultural history of costume</kwd><kwd>history of lace</kwd></kwd-group></article-meta></front><back><ref-list><title>References</title><ref id="cit1"><label>1</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Бодрийяр Ж. Пароли. От фрагмента к фрагменту. Екатеринбург : У­Фактория, 2006. 200 с.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Baudrillard О. 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