French Fashion Magazine Illustration of the Late 17th and Early 19th Century
https://doi.org/10.25281/2072-3156-2025-22-5-484-501
Abstract
The article is a study of French fashion magazine illustration in the period of its formation in the late 17th and early 19th century. On the example of the illustrative material of the most significant periodicals of that time, which to a greater or lesser extent covered the issues of fashion and style, it was revealed that French fashion magazine illustration in the period under study went from imitation of static black-and-white frontal images like costume prints, to figurative and expressive dynamic colour images. To a certain extent, this process, as well as the increase in the share of pictorial elements in relation to the textual component of fashion periodicals by the beginning of the 19th century, was a reflection of the social and cultural aspects of French economic, political and social life in the late 17th and early 19th centuries, shaped by the ideas of the Enlightenment and the Great French Revolution. The search for optimal content from the point of view of marketing prompted the publishers and editors of the first fashion magazines to rely on the expressiveness and quality of illustrative material. This approach, in which the content and form of the images perfectly met the requirements of the time, had a positive impact on the circulation of these publications and, as a consequence, on the spread of French fashion ideals. Created by a plead of remarkable artists and engravers, fashion magazine illustrations of the late 17th and early 19th century, in addition to being important documents of everyday life and unique informative sources for fashion historians, are outstanding examples of graphic art, have undoubted artistic value and as an object of study are worthy of close attention.
About the Author
Vladimir A. KrasnoshchyokovRussian Federation
4 Gagarin street, Togliatti, 445017, Russia
ORCID 0000-0003-0275-4490; SPIN 3097-7485
References
1. Nelson Best K. The History of Fashion Journalism. London, New York, Bloomsbury Publ., 2017, 304 p.
2. Kondrasheva E.V., Poryvaeva L.V. The History of Women’s Magazines in Europe, Uchenye zametki TOGU: ehlektronnoe periodicheskoe izdanie [Scientific Notes PNU: electronic periodical], 2016, vol. 7, no. 2, pp. 241—245. Available at: https://togudv.ru/media/ejournal/articles-2016/TGU_7_90.pdf (accessed 30.06.2025) (in Russ.).
3. Mitrokhina K.L. French Ladies’ Magazines of the 18th Century and the First Russian Editions for Women’s Reading, Zhurnalistika i obshchestvo. Al’manakh kafedry teorii i istorii zhurnalistiki RUDN [Journalism and Society. Almanac of the RUDN Department of Theory and History of Journalism]. Moscow, RUDN Publ., 2008, vpp. 183—194 (in Russ.).
4. Sewell W.H. The Empire of Fashion and the Rise of Capitalism in Eighteenth-Century France, Past & Present, 2010, no. 206, pp. 81—120. DOI: 10.1093/pastj/gtp044.
5. Arkhipova N.A., Stor I.N. Ehvolyutsiya khudozhestvenno-graficheskogo yazyka illyustratsii zhurnalov mod [Evolution of Art and Graphic Language of Illustrations of Fashion Magazines]. Moscow, Moskovskii Gosudarstvennyi Universitet Dizaina i Tekhnologii Publ., 2014, 206 p.
6. Gaudriault R. La Gravure de Mode Féminine en France. Paris, Les Éditions de l’Amateur Publ., 1983, 224 p.
7. Gaudriault R. Répertoire de la Gravure de Mode Française des Origines a 1815. Paris, Promodis Publ., 1988, 312 p.
8. Moore D.L. Fashion Through Fashion Plates, 1770—1970. New York, Clarkson N. Potter Inc. Publ., 1971, 192 p.
9. Ribeiro A. Fashion in the French Revolution. New York, Holmes & Meier Publ., 1988, 159 p.
10. Ribeiro A. The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750 to 1820. New Haven, Yale University Press Publ., 1995, 240 p.
11. Bissonnette A. Dessiné d’Après Nature: Renditions from Life in the Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1798—99, Journal for Eighteenth-Century Studies, 2015, vol. 38, no. 2, pp. 213—237. DOI: 10.1111/1754-0208.12205.
12. Lapik N.A. The Embodiment of the Empire Style in the “Fashion” Engraving of the French and Russian Fashion Magazines in the First Quarter of the 19th Century, Vestnik Sankt-Peterburgskogo gosudarstvennogo instituta kul’tury [Bulletin of St. Petersburg State University of Culture], 2013, no. 1, pp. 114—121 (in Russ.).
13. Krasnoshchyokov V.A. Visualization of Fashion in European Engravings of the 16th — Early 18th Century, Observatoriya kul’tury [Observatory of Culture], 2024, vol. 21, no. 5, pp. 502—515. DOI: 10.25281/2072-3156-2024-21-5-502-515 (in Russ.).
14. Nesterova M.A. Fashion Magazines of 18th—20th Centuries: History and Developing of the German Ones, Vestnik Sankt-Peterburgskogo gosudarstvennogo instituta kul’tury [Bulletin of St. Petersburg State University of Culture], 2015, no. 3, pp. 117—124 (in Russ.).
15. Boissard J.-J. Habitus Variarum Orbis Gentium, 1581, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Estampes et Photographie, 4-OB-25. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8447128r.r=Jean%20Jacques%20Boissard?rk=236052;4 (accessed 30.06.2025).
16. Vincent M. Le Mercure Galant: Présentation de la Première Revue Féminine d’Information et de Culture, 1672—1710. Paris, Honoré Champion Publ., 2005, 669 p.
17. Benhamou R. Fashion in the “Mercure”: From Human Foible to Female Failing, Eighteenth-Century Studies, 1997, vol. 31, no. 1, pp. 27—43.
18. DeJean J.E. The Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafés, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour. New York, Free Press Publ., Simon and Schuster Publ., 2005, 303 p.
19. Extraordinaire du Mercure Galant, 01 Janvier 1678, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Philosophie, Histoire, Sciences de l’Homme, 8-LC2-34. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bd6t54194553m/f525.planchecontact.r=Mercure%20Galant (accessed 30.06.2025).
20. Inventaire du Fonds Français: Graveurs du XVII Siècle. Tome 11. Antoine Lepautre, Jacques Lepautre et Jean Lepautre, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département des Estampes et de la Photographie, 4-YE2-63 (11). Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4227530v/f218.item.r=Inventaire%20du%20fonds%20fran%C3%A7ais,%20graveurs%20du%20XVIIe%20si%C3%A8cle (accessed 30.06.2025).
21. Choné P., de La Gorce J. Fastes de Cour au XVIIe Siècle: Costumes de Bellange et de Berain. Saint-Rémy-en-L’Eau, Éditions Monelle Hayot Publ., 2015, 263 p.
22. Extraordinaire du Mercure Galant. 01 Janvier 1678, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Philosophie, Histoire, Sciences de l’Homme, 8-LC2-34. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bd6t54194553m/f548.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
23. Koning G., Verhaak E. New for Now: The Origin of Fashion Magazines. Amsterdam, Rijksmuseum Publ., 2015, 203 p.
24. Cabinet des Modes, ou les Modes Nouvelles, Décrites d’une Manière Claire & Précise, & Représentées par des Planches en Taille-Douce, Enluminées, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5608591g (accessed 30.06.2025).
25. Jones J.M. Sexing la Mode: Gender, Fashion and Commercial Culture in Old Regime France. Oxford, New York, Berg Publ., 2004, 244 p.
26. Kleinert A. Le “Journal des Dames et des Modes”, ou’La Conquête de l’Europe Féminine, 1797—1839. Stuttgart, Jan Thorbecke Verlag, 2001, 502 p.
27. Cabinet des Modes. 15 Mai 1786, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Philosophie, Histoire, Sciences de l’Homme, SMITH LESOUEF R-4281. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1040053d/f11.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
28. Magasin des Modes Nouvelles, Françaises et Anglaises, Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Catalogue Général: website. Available at: https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb32896302v (accessed 06.06.2025).
29. Magasin des Modes Nouvelles, Françaises et Anglaises. 11 Mars 1789, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Philosophie, Histoire, Sciences de l’Homme, SMITH LESOUEF R-3405. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k15279555/f10.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
30. Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français / Dessinés d’Après Nature, Gravés par les Plus Célèbres Artistes en ce Genre; et Colorés avec le Plus Grand soin par Madame Le Beau: Ouvrage Commencé en l’Année 1778, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Réserve des Livres Rares, RES FOL-LI7-4. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1056746t/f24.planchecontact (accessed 30.06.2025).
31. Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français [Image fixe]: [estampe] / Dessinés d’Après Nature [par C. Desrais, P.T. Leclerc et al.]; Gravés par les Plus Célèbres Artistes en ce Genre [N. Dupin, E. Voysard et al.], Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Arsenal, EST-195. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b53192297k/f99.planchecontact.r=Gallerie%20des%20modes%20et%20costumes%20fran%C3%A7ais (accessed 30.06.2025).
32. Tableau Général du Goût, des Modes et Costumes de Paris (1798—1799), Press 18. Le Gazetier Révolutionnaire (Presse Numérisée de la Révolution): website. Available at: https://gazetier-revolutionnaire.gazettes18e.fr/node/16026 (accessed 30.06.2025).
33. Tableau Général du Goût, des Modes et Costumes de Paris. 22 Octobre 1798, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Réserve des Livres Rares, RES 8-LC14-159. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1217356h/f20.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
34. Le Mois, Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Catalogue Général: website. Available at: https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb32817706x (accessed 30.06.2025).
35. Le Mois. 1799—1800. No. 16, RUKS Museum: website. Available at: https://id.rijksmuseum.nl/200524575 (accessed 30.06.2025).
36. Lyons M. France Under the Directory. New York, Cambridge University Press Publ., 1975, 269 p.
37. Journal des Dames et des Modes, Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Catalogue Général: website. Available at: https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb32799510k (accessed 30.06.2025).
38. Journal des Dames, Press 18: Dictionnaire des Journaux 1600—1789: website. Available at: https://dictionnaire-journaux.gazettes18e.fr/journal/0697-journal-des-dames (accessed 30.06.2025).
39. Journal des Dames et des Modes, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb32799510k/date&rk=21459;2 (accessed 30.06.2025).
40. Journal des Dames et des Modes (1797—1799), Press 18. Le Gazetier Révolutionnaire (Presse Numérisée de la Révolution): website. Available at: https://gazetier-revolutionnaire.gazettes18e.fr/periodique/journal-des-dames-et-des-modes-1797-1799 (accessed 30.06.2025).
41. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 25 Avril 1803, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1041614p/f9.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
42. Journal des Dames et des Modes, Costume Parisien, 25 Avril 1803. An 11, (465): Chapeau Garni en Chicorée, RUKS Museum: website. Available at: https://id.rijksmuseum.nl/200533896 (accessed 30.06.2025).
43. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 03 Août 1804, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1041798q/f9.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
44. Costume Parisien, Paris Musees: Les Musées de la Ville de Paris: website. Available at: https://www.parismuseescollections.paris.fr/fr/recherche?keywords=Costume%20Parisien&page=1 (accessed 30.06.2025).
45. Modes et Manières du Jour à Paris à la Fin du 18e Siècle et au Commencement du 19e Siècle, Paris Musees: Les Musées de la Ville de Paris: website. Available at: https://www.parismuseescollections.paris.fr/fr/musee-carnavalet/oeuvres/modes-et-manieres-du-jour-a-paris-a-la-fin-du-18e-siecle-et-au-commencement#infos-principales (accessed 30.06.2025).
46. Artwork from Etienne Esperance Bouchardy (1768—1850)’ Found, 6, Bridgeman Images: website Available at: https://www.bridgemanimages.com/en/explore/artist/Bouchardy-Etienne-Esperance-1768-1850/gallery (accessed 30.06.2025).
47. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 31 Mai 1811, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1042130c/f5.item (accessed 06.06.2025).
48. Observations sur les Modes et les Usages de Paris, pour Servir d’Explication aux 115 Caricatures Publiées sous le Titre de Bon Genre, Depuis le Commencement di Dix-Neuvième Siècle, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Réserve des Livres Rares, Z AUDEOUD-65. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1054664s/f159.planchecontact (accessed 30.06.2025).
49. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 20 Mai 1809, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1041178w/f10.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
50. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 17 Août 1798, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k57090g/f210.item (accessed 30.06.2025).
51. Histoire de la Littérature Dramatique / par M. Jules Janin, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Département Collections Numérisées, 2008-62341. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k54061962/f459.planchecontact.r=Jules%20Janin,%20%20Histoire%20de%20la%20litt%C3%A9rature%20dramatique (accessed 30.06.2025).
52. Journal des Dames et des Modes, Editie Frankfurt 9 Octobre 1808, Costume Parisien (41), RUKS Museum: website. Available at: https://id.rijksmuseum.nl/200509036 (accessed 30.06.2025).
53. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 15 Septembre 1808, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k10420427/f5 (accessed 30.06.2025).
54. Journal des Dames et des Modes. 20 Septembre 1808, Bibliothèque Nationale de France: website. Available at: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k10420442/f5 (accessed 30.06.2025).
55. Costumes Historiques de la France d’Apres les Monuments les Plus Authentiques, Statues, Bas-Reliefs, Tombeaux, Sceaux, Monnaies, Peintures à Fresque... Miniatures, Dessins, Estampes... avec un Texte Descriptif par Le Bibliophile Jacob. T. VIII (Empire Napoleon Marechaux — Militaires Louis XVIII Restauration Louis Philippe Mode) / Par le bibliophile Jacob (Paul Lacroix). Paris, Ch. de La Motte Libraire-Editeur Publ., 1860, 224 p.
- Fashion illustration remains popular due to its ability to express and convey the unique style, mood, and concept of a brand or designer in an accessible language.
- Through artistic expression, which is created through factors such as the individual artist's style and the characteristics and types of printing technologies, fashion illustrations capture current trends, reflecting the spirit of the era, and serve as an important cultural and historical document and source.
- French fashion magazine illustrations of the late 17th and early 19th centuries possess undeniable artistic value and, as an object of study, are worthy of close attention. This undoubtedly places them among the most important documents of everyday life.
- The emergence of illustrations as accompaniments to fashion articles in periodicals in the late 17th century and their increasing proportion relative to the text component by the early 19th century were determined by the search for new forms of fashion periodicals aimed at attracting readers and subscribers.
Review
For citations:
Krasnoshchyokov V.A. French Fashion Magazine Illustration of the Late 17th and Early 19th Century. Observatory of Culture. 2025;22(5):484-501. (In Russ.) https://doi.org/10.25281/2072-3156-2025-22-5-484-501































